Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

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Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Sat May 10, 2008 11:13 am

This is a bit easier than the LS1 swap. Got all my part from a 2000 Blazer 4WD. Turns out, you need 2wd rotors for a 2WD:

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.... so I had to buy them new anyway, but they aren't that expensive, got a hardware kit and new pads too.

Start buy pulling the axles and brake backing plates:

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This is what it will look like when you get that done:

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It might be a good idea to do some new axle seals at this time, no better time to do it, and they are less than $10 for a pair. In my case I had to make some shims to get the caliper brackets to line up:

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... and since I didn't have any sheetmetal the right thickness handy, I just cut my shims out of the old backing plates:

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From that point, it's a simple bolt on operation to get them mounted:

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Once they were mounted, I discovered that my bumpstops would hit the calipers, especially with my truck being lowered, so the bumpstops and brackets had to be removed, I used a 4" angle grinder, cutoff wheel, and an air chisel:

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You can see in a few of the pics that the E-brake cable just slips into the caliper mounting brackets, but I still need to go find the right cables to attach them, the drum brake cable have the wrong type of ends to attach to the disc E-brake levers.

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All done:

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Any questions, I'll be here all week, :mrgreen:
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby smallblocker » Sat May 10, 2008 12:37 pm

Awesome info and pics Rick. I saw your previous info on this, and completed my swap last week. A TRUE BOLT ON, and easy. I converted a blazer axle from a 94 4x4 and also had to use the 2wd rotors. So no caliper-bumpstop clearance probs with the wider diff. I also haven't got e-brake cables yet, but I'm gonna try 2 left side cables. I also had to spacer the caliper brackets.
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Sat May 10, 2008 12:50 pm

I forgot to mention, my truck used to really BANG crossing railroad tracks, even after I trimmed them down, since I cut the bumpstops off, NO MORE BANGING. 8)
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Triaged71 » Sat May 10, 2008 1:32 pm

What was the hat height (from outboard friction face to wheel mounting surface) for the 4x4 and 2wd rotors? My 2wd 8.5" was 2-1/16". It looks like yours have a taller hat making the calipers closer to the frame.

Are 4x4 calipers on the front of the axle and 2wd on the back? Mine are on the back...or maybe it is because mine was from a Blazer???
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Calipers have about 1/2" clearance to the frame.
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How is the proportioning with the F-body front brakes? With my B-body front brakes I have almost too little rear brakes.
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby mytymse » Sat May 10, 2008 5:07 pm

great info.
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Sat May 10, 2008 5:23 pm

I don't remember the actual distance on the 4x4 calipers, but the 2WD rotors were close to an inch shorter. The first two pics were with the 4X4 rotors, the rest are with new 2WD rotors, and since this whole setup came from a 2000 4x4 Blazer, I'd say the difference is 2WD vs. 4X4. 8)
BTW, my combi valve is now gutted, it's only function is now as a warning switch and a convenient plumbing point, however, my RABS valve is intact, and on the first REALLY hard stop I found out it really works. What happens is that the rear brakes do not overpower the tires, UNTIL the front brakes start clamping hard enough to start transferring weight, THEN the rears try to lock up, activating the RABS. I've considered doing LS1 brakes on the rear too, but there really is no need. I have a fairly perfect balance now as it is. This thing will stop harder than anything I've driven short of a sprint car, period 8)
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby SleeperSS » Sat May 10, 2008 5:26 pm

smallblocker wrote:Awesome info and pics Rick. I saw your previous info on this, and completed my swap last week. A TRUE BOLT ON, and easy. I converted a blazer axle from a 94 4x4 and also had to use the 2wd rotors. So no caliper-bumpstop clearance probs with the wider diff. I also haven't got e-brake cables yet, but I'm gonna try 2 left side cables. I also had to spacer the caliper brackets.


Don't quote me on this, but it seems to me I've heard that cables from a ZR2 Blazer are a perfect fit.
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Sat May 10, 2008 5:36 pm

I'd think that almost any disc brake S cable would work. The stock ones fit fine, they just have the wrong ends for the E-brake levers on the disc brakes. 8)
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby SleeperSS » Sat May 10, 2008 9:57 pm

SleeperSS wrote:
smallblocker wrote:Awesome info and pics Rick. I saw your previous info on this, and completed my swap last week. A TRUE BOLT ON, and easy. I converted a blazer axle from a 94 4x4 and also had to use the 2wd rotors. So no caliper-bumpstop clearance probs with the wider diff. I also haven't got e-brake cables yet, but I'm gonna try 2 left side cables. I also had to spacer the caliper brackets.


Don't quote me on this, but it seems to me I've heard that cables from a ZR2 Blazer are a perfect fit.
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby SleeperSS » Sat May 10, 2008 9:58 pm

Rickracer wrote:I'd think that almost any disc brake S cable would work. The stock ones fit fine, they just have the wrong ends for the E-brake levers on the disc brakes. 8)


I think there is a problem with the overall length.
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Sun May 11, 2008 5:40 am

A measuring tape would tell us pretty quick if they are too long or too short. 8)
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby BofoMills » Thu May 29, 2008 8:53 am

Would this swap work for me even thought I don't have that black box for my RABS ?
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby s10studduts01s » Thu May 29, 2008 9:04 am

what is the combi valve?
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Triaged71 » Thu May 29, 2008 9:21 am

Combination valve. It normally (on GM's) contains a proportioning valve for the rear brakes to limit pressure, a differential pressure switch (aka idiot light switch), and a hold-off valve that keeps the front brakes from applying till the rear line pressure is high enough to overcome the drum brake return springs. When you put in disc brakes you don't need the hold-off valve, and chances are the proportioning valve's calibration will no longer be right. I ditched the whole shooting match and plumbed in an adjustable proportioning valve.

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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby badmatt » Thu May 29, 2008 9:09 pm

Looks good Rick!
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Fri May 30, 2008 5:54 am

badmatt wrote:Looks good Rick!

...and stops better!!!! Thanks Matt, 8)
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Grappler » Fri May 30, 2008 2:29 pm

off topic but, are those eibach springs on your truck? cause i have the same little piece thats sitting at the spring perch. I thought it was something added afterwards to it. Perhaps not?

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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Fri May 30, 2008 4:07 pm

I think they are Belltechs, but I'm not absolutely certain, I got em from my friend Mike. 8)
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby BofoMills » Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:43 pm

Uhh so will it work without RABS ?



YOu used the old backing plate from the 4wd blazer and the caliper correct ? cut out your old backing plate to be used as a shim between the axle and the 4wd backing plate ?
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Re: Rear Disc Swap (w/ lots of pics, 56K beware)

Postby Rickracer » Sat Jun 07, 2008 6:43 am

Yes, that is correct Jose. It will work without RABS, but you may get some rear lockup under EXTREME braking conditions. When the fronts clamp down hard, they cause some pretty significant weight transfer to the front wheels, and that's when the rears tend to lock. For those that still have RABS, DO NOT REMOVE IT, it really works when your braking system is capable of actuating the brakes hard enough to activate it, the stock drum brake system really isn't except under wet road conditions. :wink: 8)
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